“All kittens are born with worms”, this is what the vet said to me while I was having a stray kitten treated for an upper respiratory infection. That little stray kitten turned out to be our Lydia, who originally made her way into our yard through the small holes (1¾ inch x 1¾ inch) in our cat fence. Apparently, our fence is “cat proof” but not “kitten proof”!

The Fecal Test… Eewww, Gross!
The vet recommended a fecal matter test for worms, which we promptly had performed on Lydia, and consequently, came back negative for any signs of worm eggs. The vet informed us that she is negative for worm eggs now, but that she probably has worms and it just indicates the eggs haven’t matured enough to show-up positive in the fecal test. This is when the vet said to me, “all kittens are born with worms” and they are passed to them from their mothers while in the uterus. Of course, for those who know me… you already know that the next thing I did was hit the internet to do some research. So, here is what I discovered about cat worms.

Thanks for the Worms Mom!
It has been reported that 95% of kittens contract worms in one way or another, either from inside the mother’s womb or while nursing on the mother’s milk. Even if a mother cat shows no signs of intestinal parasite infection, they may still have worms that lay dormant and get passed to their kittens. Also, if the mother has fleas or the kittens themselves have fleas they can be infected.

Apparently, there are several types of worms that can infect a cat. Here are the most common types of cat worms according to an article at WebMD.

Worms in Cats: An Infection of Intestinal Parasites
WebMD

What Are the Most Common Types of Worms in Cats?

• Roundworms are the most common internal parasites in cats. Resembling spaghetti, adult worms are three to four inches long. There are several ways cats can become infected. Nursing kittens can get roundworms from an infected mother’s milk, while adult cats can acquire them by ingesting an infected rodent or the feces of an infected cat.

• Hookworms are much smaller than roundworms-less than an inch long-and reside primarily in the small intestine. Because they feed on an animal’s blood, hookworms can cause life-threatening anemia, especially in kittens. Hookworm eggs are passed in the stool and hatch into larvae, and a cat can become infected either through ingestion or skin contact. Please note, hookworms are more common in dogs than in cats.

• Long and flat, tapeworms are segmented parasites and range from 4 to 28 inches in length. An infestation can cause vomiting or weight loss. Cats acquire tapeworms by ingesting an intermediate host, like an infected flea or rodent. When cats are infected, tapeworm segments-actual pieces of the worm that resemble grains of rice-can often be seen on the fur around a cat’s hind end.

Unlike intestinal parasites, lungworms reside in the lungs of a cat. Most cats will not show any signs of having lungworms, but some can develop a cough. Snails and slugs are popular intermediate hosts of this type of parasite, but cats are usually infected after eating a bird or rodent who has ingested an intermediate host.

Read more: http://pets.webmd.com/cats/worms-cats-infection-intestinal-parasites

Signs and Symptoms of Cat Worms
Depending on the type and location of the parasitic worms that a cat has been infected, the signs and symptoms exhibited by the host cat will vary. Here are some clinical signs and symptoms associated with each type of cat worm. Note, some symptoms appear the same with different types of worms and this is not a comprehensive list.

Roundworms

• Swollen belly (pot bellied)
• Constantly hungry
• Vomiting
• Chronic Diarrhea
• Lethargy
• Dull or poor coat

Hookworms

• Diarrhea
• Blood in the stool
• Abdominal pain
• Kittens, stunted growth

Tapeworms

• Small white rice-like segments on fur near anus
• Worm segments in cat’s feces
• Constant hunger
• Weight loss

Lungworms

• Cough
• Trouble breathing

Heartworms (less prevalent in cats)

• Almost no symptoms
• Diagnosis difficult 

How to Treat Parasitic Cat Worms
It’s very important that you don’t try to treat your cat for worms until you consult your veterinarian and have them tested for the type of parasitic worm infection before diagnosing and prescribing treatment. One solution to reducing the risk of your cat being infected with worms is to treat your cat properly for fleas. Cat World has an informative article on treatments for cat worms and a specific section on heartworms.

Part 1-Parasitic Worms
Cat World

Treatment of parasitic worms in cats:

“There are many excellent products on the market to treat the more common worms such as tapeworm, roundworm & hookworm including tablets & topical products which are applied to the back of the neck. Your veterinarian is the best person to speak to in regards to which product will suit your cat best.

There are no approved methods to treat heartworm in cats. The treatments which are available are themselves dangerous. A single dead worm can be fatal in cats as it can break away & cause a blockage of the pulmonary artery (pulmonary embolism).

 If there are no clinical symptoms your vet may decide not to treat the cat & wait for it to clear the parasite in its own time. As stated earlier, heartworms live for around 2-3 years in cats. If this is the chosen method, your veterinarian will want to monitor your cat every 6-12 months for signs of complications.

If the cat is displaying symptoms of heartworm disease supportive therapy may be recommended. Prednisone may be given to the cat to reduce the inflammation & reaction to the worm.

Cats with severe symptoms may require additional supportive therapy such as a bronchodilator to open the airways, oxygen therapy & intravenous fluids.

Adulticide treatment may be recommended for cats with clinical signs who are not responding to supportive care. Caparsolate is the drug used & kills the adult worms. This carries risks, as a dead worm can result in a pulmonary embolism. Around 1/3rd of cats receiving treatment will face life threatening complications as a result of the dying worms. Confinement will be necessary for a few weeks after treatment. Either way, if you choose to let nature take its course & hope that the worm lives out its lifespan within the cat, or if you use an adulticide there are risks. These must be weighed up by your veterinarian before a decision is made. Surgical removal of the worms has been used in some cases.”

Read more: http://www.cat-world.com.au/internal-parasites-in-cats

Cat Worms – Prevention Tips

• If possible keep your cat indoors
• Keep your cat away from other infected cats, rodents, fleas and feces
• Keep your pets, home and yard flea free
• Use good hygiene when cleaning litter or removing feces
• Keep litter box clean from feces regularly
• Use vet approved internal parasite treatment or preventative products

Personally, I take my cats to our regular veterinarian to be tested and treated for cat worms and internal parasites. I use a product recommended by my vet called, Revolution to maintain flea protection and it also contains a preventative dose of internal parasite treatment. We’ve had a lot of success with this product and my cats are flea free and free of cat worms.

When you own cats, you are at risk of having fleas on your cats and in your house. The odds are increased if they are indoor/outdoor cats. Fleas are almost microscopic in size and difficult to eliminate. If you want to know how to get rid of fleas in your house, then you need to understand your enemy (the flea).

Fleas are definitely a nuisance and their bite generally causes quite a bit of itching and irritation of the skin. Some people can have an allergic reaction called dermatitis caused by flea saliva during a flea bite.

It’s A Flea… Where’s The Danger?
Fleas are certainly a nuisance, but not a danger despite its infamous involvement in the past with the plague. Consequently, for the plague to occur, you need a rodent that carries the plague and a flea that bites the rodent and then bites a human. Personally, I believe mosquitoes to be more dangerous than fleas; a mosquito can spread diseases from far away, whereas a flea is only going to spread diseases that are present around your house. With that said, how many of us have the human plague around our homes?

Once you start seeing fleas in your house, most likely they’ve already gotten a jump on you (no pun intended) and it will take you 3-6 months to resolve the problem. An adult female flea can lay about 200 eggs per month. Flea eggs will fall off your pet in your house, on your carpets, rugs, sofa, bedding, etc.

There are 4 Stages in a Flea’s Life Cycle:

1. Egg
2. Larva (maggoty-like-thing)
3. Pupa (in a cocoon)
4. Adult

Note, getting rid of fleas on your cats isn’t enough – you’ll have to also rid the entire household environment of fleas in order to protect your cats from them for good. Getting rid of fleas in your house can be a daunting task, so roll up your sleeves and get ready to do some work.

Tackle The Cat First!
First, you’ll want to eliminate the fleas from your cats by bathing them in warm soapy water. Dunk your cats completely in the water up to their necks (never their head) for five minutes to drown the fleas and wash off the flea poop (which is flea larvae food). Have a flea comb ready and be prepared for fleas to start running up to your cats head, eyes and ears. Use the flea comb to remove the surviving fleas and drown them in the soapy water.

Next, you’ll want to gently towel dry your cat and then let them finish drying themselves off by licking. Wait several hours and make sure your cat is completely dry, preferable the next day. Then apply a “high quality” topical flea protection solution on your cat, this will most likely require a trip to the vet’s office to purchase, and follow the directions exactly. The two most popular brands of topical flea control treatments that I recommend are advantage and Frontline, which I have personally used on my cats with a lot of success. Never use cheap over-the-counter cat flea protection products or apply dog flea protection products on your cat, it can be dangerous to your cat’s health.

Continue to apply “high quality” topical flea protection products on your cat monthly and all year-round to maintain a proper defense against future flea infestation on your cats or in your home.

Treating The Cat Is Not Enough!
Even after you get rid of the fleas on your cat, 95% of the fleas still remain in the environment. Remember the life cycle of an adult flea, it will lay eggs, the eggs hatch into larvae (little worms) which then form into a cocoon called pupa. Flea eggs and larvae can be killed by spraying the house but it won’t affect the pupa, flea pupa can survive pretty much anything. Lastly, flea pupa hatch to become adult fleas and this is where a topical flea protection solution on your cat can stop the cycle and kill the adults, preventing them from laying eggs.

Lastly, spray your house with a “high quality” and safe flea spray called Knockout Spray, following the instructions exactly. This spray has been recommended by a 20 year veterinarian and is more effective at direct application than the typical “flea bomb” products that get onto your counter tops and tables where fleas don’t live.
In addition to using a flea spray, you’ll want to clean all the fabrics in your home using a shampoo. This means bedding, carpeting, upholstery, curtains, and especially areas where your cats sleep and play. Ridding your home of fleas is the best way to ensure you get rid of fleas from your cats for good so they won’t return.

Discover The Secrets To Protect Your Pet From Fleas!

Discover The Secrets To Protect Your Pet From Fleas!

Simply mention the “V” word, and you will most likely have frantic cats along with cowering canines. But a trip to the vet doesn’t have to be disturbing. Here are a few suggestions for making the experience much more pleasant for everyone:

1. Be relaxed as well as upbeat. Animals pick up on our body language. In the event that you are extremely distressed and nervous, your animal may end up being so too.

2. Help your pet to loosen up. Calming agents, like Feliway Comfort Spray, may help reduce your cat’s stress and anxiety. It will help comfort your cat in new or stressful environments like a trip to the vet, and can also be used when moving to a new home, while traveling or boarding, and when introducing a new cat to your home. Comfort Zone Feliway’s ingredients mimic feline pheromones that calm stressed cats and works quickly and effectively.

3. Leave your own cat’s carrier out all the time. Put a towel inside in addition to sprinkling it with catnip. The cat will associate the carrier with a pleasant, private place to nap as opposed to a ride in the car. If your pet doesn’t hear you getting the carrier from a closet, he will not have the chance to wedge himself underneath a bed.

4. Get your pets accustomed to riding in the car. Even a fast spin around the block will help your dog or cat associate riding in the car with a pleasant experience. Open the windows a bit and tune the stereo to a classical music station. Classical music is comforting to animals. Whenever you get home, reward your “traveler” with a few treats. Never leave your animal alone inside a locked car, even for a few moments.

5. Make sure your animal can tolerate being handled. Touch their feet and toes, open your pet’s mouth area, look in their ears, and get them accustomed to being touched on almost all parts of their entire body.

6. Socialize your animals. Make an effort to get your dog or cat familiar with hearing, seeing as well as being touched by different people. Even leaving a television or radio station on for indoor cats will help them get accustomed to the sounds of different human voices.

7. Lavish your pet with praise. During the vet visit as well as afterwards, reward your animal with praise for being calm and also cooperative. Several treats on the ride home may help make your pet think the entire experience had been well worth it.

Declawing can be described as significant surgical treatment known as onychectomy, carried out under anesthesia that takes away the end of each digit (from the very first knuckle out) of the cat’s forepaws. There exists a slight possibility of death within the surgical treatment, and a declawed cat might have an elevated chance of infection along with life-long soreness in its paws. This kind of surgical treatment is not recommended for an adult cat and it’s regarded in certain countries (see below) as an act of animal cruelty.

Individuals commonly have cats declawed to keep their pet from hunting and from harming furniture. In the US, some landlords require that tenants’ cats be declawed.

Veterinarians are generally critical of the procedure and a few won’t even perform it due to the fact that the absence of claws in a cat:

1. Deprives the cat of its primary defense abilities, which includes getting away from potential predators by climbing trees;
2. Impairs its stretching as well as physical exercise routines, ultimately causing muscle atrophy;
3. Jeopardizes its ability to balance on slim surfaces including railings plus fence tops, ultimately causing injuries from falls;
4. Could cause insecurity along with a subsequent inclination to bite.

This operation is uncommon beyond North America. Throughout Finland, Germany, the Netherlands as well as Switzerland, declawing is forbidden by the laws against cruelty to animals. Within many other European countries, it is not allowed under the conditions of the European Convention for the Protection of Pets, unless of course “a veterinarian considers [such] non-curative procedures necessary either for veterinary medical reasons as well as for the advantage of (the) animal”. Within Britain, animal shelters find it difficult to place imported cats which have already been declawed and consequently most are usually euthanized.

An alternative to declawing is the application of blunt, vinyl nail caps that are usually affixed to the claws with nontoxic glue, like “soft paws” requires regular replacement when the cat sheds its claw sheaths (about every 4 to 6 weeks). However, the cat may nonetheless experience difficulties due to the fact the capped nails are not as powerful as claws.

My cats all have their claws and personally for me I would not consider declawing, I prefer to keep my cats nails clipped and provide plenty of cat scratching posts to keep them from scratching my furniture. If you are having problems with your cat scratching the furniture I would also suggest a training spray, I have used SmartyKat Scratch Not spray with much success.

The most essential decision a pet-parent has to make is that of selecting a vet. It’s the veterinarian who will understand your pet in the event they should get sick and also your vet who will care enough to stay in the for front of advancements in preventative veterinarian medicine.

By no means should you choose a vet simply because he has a good smile, a beautiful office or is the least expensive. Select a veterinarian who thinks about your pet the same as you do and will always keep your pet’s best interest at heart. The veterinarian will need to love the breed that your pet is as well as:

• Be gentle and kind when dealing with your cat or dog. He must not leave diagnosis as well as examinations to assistants.
• He or she would be wise to stay in front of advancements within medicine and update his skills along with continuous understanding.



• The vet should be in a position to stand by you through thick and thin along with proper timely guidance.
• The clinic should be spik and span and have room for an overnight stay with thoroughly clean kennels, space to run, and staff who love pets.
• It would be beneficial that the clinic be located near your home and it provides health care plans for your family pet.
• Ask the clinic if they have emergency contact numbers so that you can call in the event that an unforeseen problem happens in the middle of the night or on a holiday.
• Verify that the clinic provides specialists consulting with them like orthopedic doctors and eye specialists.

As a concerned pet parent you must make a list of questions you need answers to and spend some time finding out whether or not you would be more confident with an allopathic vet represented by the American Veterinary Medical Association, AVMA or possibly a holistic vet represented by the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, AHVMA.

While allopathic veterinarians practice conventional medicine, a holistic veterinarian may make use of medicinal herbs, nutritional changes or even supplements, vitamins, along with enzymes, chiropractic manipulations, homeopathy, Bach flower remedies, as well as massages for treatment. And, in the event that is what’s needed, they’ll prescribe allopathic medicines. They try and also treat the cause not merely the symptoms of virtually any ailment.

It is essential for you to pick an animal medical practitioner who’ll work alongside you in looking after the pet. He or she must be patient, love your pet, and make time to explain things to you as well as listen to your opinion of things. In the end, simply no one can know your pet better than you. A vet must care for the pet for around 10-15 years. He or she must be organized in addition to maintain health records with excellent detail from the day the pet is born to the day it passes away.

A pet may lead a complete existence only when you, the veterinarian, as well as trainer operate in harmony and also side by side. Therefore, selecting a suitable vet is an important decision that should be done after weighing all the benefits and drawbacks.